Engine swap tips wanted (Daytona 675)

[Cuckoo]

2009
Hi thanks for all the input on previous thread on my stuttering Daytona.
During the ongoing investigation I found 'shavings' in the oil and it turns out the cam and cam holder is shot. I dont believe this is the root of the problem but it has to be fixed. After getting a quote for the job I decided a engine swap would be more ecconomical. I've picked up a 8k mile engine, mine is 25k.
I've never taken on such a task before but armed with a camera (before shots) and a trusty Haynes manual I'm going to give it a try.
I looking for any tips and tricks, no matter how obvious you think they are including what types of greese, lubricants to use on the different parts of the engine and electrical to use. The engine didn't come with the alternator but I've changed one before on my FZ6. I know I will have to reset the tps after the build which i can do.
Thanks in advance

[billinom8s]

Take lots of pics
Make lots of notes
Bag up sections of stuff you remove
Place nuts and washers onto any bolts they come from
Place bolts back into holes they came from when removing bits
Refer to the manual for which bolts require copper slip and which require threadlock.
If a bolt is hard to remove, check the manual to see if it went in with threadlock on it.
When rebuilding, check Torque figures - they provide them for a reason.
Take your time, it's only a race when your mate passes you.
Clean as you go
Enjoy it

[Ruffian]

Grab yourself lots of Chinese pots for bolts and bits,
And a roll of masking tape for plugs to write where they fitted into with a little flag.

Keep everything clean and organised and if you can lay it out in order, ie if I part got removed place it there and then next part beside it and so on. This way when rebuilding your going to know the next bit to refit.

[billinom8s]

if i'm doing a job like that then the pasting table comes out, a towel put onto it(stops things rolling away) and then, like ruffian said, bits get put down in order.

[Jug]

Work space is key.
Clean area to work and plenty of space to store the removed parts, or at least a good system of boxing and storing parts.

[Ducaki]

Try to do the job in a short period of time, like over the weekend. If you take it apart and leave in bits for a week or two, it becomes alot harder.
I'd normally have my head in the manual and writing notes the week before. YouTube can be a big help too.
Decent torque wrench is a must.
Undo the sprocket first.

[billinom8s]

Undo the sprocket first.

sprocket nut?

[Red5]

Diagrams and photos as you go too.... you always think, I'll remember that goes that way or that shim went in that position, what ever.... just label identify and record. And Good luck!!!!

[TLS-Moose]

Surely very little beyond bodywork actually has to come off?

Loosen gearbox sprocket first of all.
Disconnect clutch cable & gear shift linkage at engine end.
Loosen throttle bodies on stubs
Remove exhaust
Disconnect generator/pick up at nearest connectors
Disconnect coolant hoses at engine end
Disconnect oil cooler, if it has one, at engine end
Undo engine bolts (minding toes)

Reverse process.

Go ride. Take a magnet with you for the bits you didn't tighten up enough

[ptolemyx]

Lucky for you it's a little Trumpet. You need a crowbar and bodybuilding friend to get a Busa/B-King motor out

P.S. a magnet's no good for the aluminium bits that fall off

[billinom8s]

I thought they were made of wood.

[Ruffian]

What happened to the old engine in the end??

[MikeZ]

Check out the electrical connectors as you go. Mine was only 6yrs old (kwak not trumpet) but one of the injector connections wasn't clean and it took ages to find.