Yes, it could be... but don't assume it is.
Do the resistance checks for the stator coils, if they look within spec then do the output voltage tests with the engine running.
Yes, it could be... but don't assume it is.
So it's not just 17 year-old Aprilia's that do this then ?
Yes & No.
But then can't check the condition of the connectors properly and if gotten hot, could be prone to fracturing.Jug_Inspector wrote: ↑Aug 19th, '18, 11:23Yes & No.
You can bare the wires and simply crimp to rejoin them, or solder them. A crimp joint is better than a soldered joint IF done correctly.
Correctly means correct size crimp for the wire and a proper crimp tool (ratcheting type), not the cheap ones DIY.
Both the above are generally better than a connector.
The connector failing could be the only issue here, and if so would not cause any harm to the stator or the R/R. In this situation the battery can be harmed by over discharge (which will most likely just reduce it's charge capacity), unless it was already on its last legs.
Crimp tool - as long as it's a proper tool that has been setup to provide only the correct crimping force (and no more) then you're good. The bonus of the ratcheting type is they won't allow you to stop until the correct force has been achieved, the non-ratchet type will let you under force a crimp so it's kind of guess work for how hard to squeeze.Ruffian wrote: ↑Aug 19th, '18, 12:49 But then can't check the condition of the connectors properly and if gotten hot, could be prone to fracturing.
You've confused me here.. are you saying that if a connector is used then you can periodically inspect it?
If so then yes... but if you use sealed crimp then you can be sure that it hasn't deteriorated as it's heat sealed after crimping. You could also use clear covered crimps which will discolour if excess heat is generated.
I would still prefer my branded non-ratchet crimps compared to cheap cheap bin fodder ratchet.
I have never come across any law that you should not put a sticker on your helmet.
hey TLS-Moose