South West Bikers | Motorcycle Forum

nope,it was bike shops that were scottoiler agents that said they were poor and wouldnt fit them to their own bikes and i'd trust the different people who i had the conversations with.
too much oil on a chain can cause grit and muck to stick the chain which wont help increase but will shorten chain life so has a negative effect on what the objective is,similair thing with a optimate. i had loads of mates with dukes that were alarmed and it still didnt charge them, my 916 wasnt alarmed un-optimated and started first time every time.
its down to personal opinions on products and everyone has their own choices.

How about Castrol chain wax , can i use that on my Honda CB900F Bol Dor

Pro oiler look good, heres some info from there site:-

FAQ r1.6.1



General



1. What's the problem with spray-on lubricants?



A spray-on lubricant has to satisfy two conflicting requirements:

· it needs to be sticky to adhere to the chain for the 500km (or more) between applications

· it needs to get to the contact areas of the bushings and rollers - and stay there, doing a lubricating job, whilst being contaminated with road grit.



Being sticky means that road dirt and grit adheres to it - and this gets crunched into a grinding paste - which just kills your chain.



You've probably heard the expression "clean and lubricate the chain".



The cleaning part is actually almost as important as lubricating - this means cleaning out the caked-on abrasive gunge from the contact areas - before applying a new layer of lubricant.



Only the most fanatical owners actually clean the chain with paraffin or a specialized chain cleaner before applying the next dose of chain lube. It's a really dirty and time-consuming job.



Some spray-on chain lubricants are dry and waxy - which helps somewhat to prevent grit adhering to the chain and getting turned into a grinding paste. But they still don't solve the issue of keeping lubricant where it's needed in the contact areas.



Next, the lubricant suspended in solvent needs to penetrate into the bushing/roller contact area, and then evaporate fully. So you need to lube the chain a quite some time before riding off - in practice this means doing it when you get back in from a ride.



If you manually clean and lubricate the chain every few kilometers, then you could begin to approach the performance of a continuous lubrication system - but this is just impractical.



The PRO-OILER gives your chain a regular shot of oil every few kms, which

· keeps the contact areas of the chain permanently lubricated

· keeps the chain clean by flushing out and shedding the grit.



So the fundamental problem with spray-on lubricants is that they simply do not lubricate the chain as effectively as an automatic continuous oiler.



· The chain has a much shorter life.

· You need to adjust the chain much more frequently.

PeterM wrote:Chain???

What the hell is one of those

Peter

guess you got a belt drive hardly ferguson then
Merv

gotta admit i have a electric controlled oiler on my Rd400, a loobman (cheap and effective but if yuo are worried about looks forget it ) on my Rd 250 and have a new scottoiler bought recently from someone locally who had sold his ducati
and bought a guzzi, the chain life on the rd.s is much better with the oilers
Merv

Interesting thread this as currently debating whether or not to get one fitted to mine. Heard so many arguments for them and not many against apart from them not being cosmetically pleasing but then I guess thats just a case of how they are fitted. Anyone got any pics of one fitted (esystem or standard)?

As an alternative, I've been looking at wurth dry chain lube, apparantly it "doesn't fling" but then they all say that.

http://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=554405

Anyone used this??

so long as the chain surface iis chemically clean, the lube won't fling. you can clean the chain using one of the readily available products on the market.

i had a scotoiler on my R1 for a while but never seemed to be able to set it up right so got rid of it, now do all the lubing manually - therapy maybe

also something to think about, sometimes the mounting point for the nozzle takes up the mounting point for paddock stand bobbins or if you use cups, for your stand they can crush the pipework.

just something to take into consideration.

use the wurth dry stuff myself and am more than happy with it.
i find it much easier and cleaner to use than many of the 'wet' style lube like pj1 etc.
the only downside is it dries quite quickly and almost invisible so unless your very quick you may forget where you started spraying it on.
also as billi said it works much better on a clean chain.

I use baby blood

Funky wrote:I use baby blood

Rookie mistake, it flings way too much. Fetus loob is what I use.

For the last ten years i have been using the usual chain lube, various brands such as silkolene, i clean the chain with WD40 on an old rag to remove old lube and grit, but the trouble i have had for many years is that the lube would fling off and coat the rear wheel , swinging arm and also fling off onto the back of the number plate, so a bit messy,
i decided to change my chain and sprockets and find a better chain lube, the best i have found is WD40 chain wax, its white in colour and just brilliant, it will never fling off, just wish i had changed along time ago.

Once set up i thnk they're really good. They also keep the chain clean, you just got to remember to
1. turn off on trackdays
2. Remember it's there whenever you fit back wheel.
3. Don't fit pipe under swingarm.

I've used on 4 bikes all good. Current z1000 half way through 3rd chain after a dozen trackdays and 36k miles.

Regardless of the pros and cons of Scottoilers, about the best thing you can do for bike maintenance is regular cleaning when you (perhaps not even consciously) get a good close inspection of things and that obviously goes for the drive chain and sprockets. That's the reason I clean and lube my chain regularly.

As soon as mine start to look dirty or the lube on there gets very dark they get a wipe down with a rag and re-oiled.
I use engine or gear oil between full cleans. Every now & then I rinse with WD40, dry with a cloth and then spray with Putoline DX11.

I also have a manual oiler on each bike, generally hidden away so you probably wouldn't even know it was there. It's generally only needed for multi day trips.