South West Bikers | Motorcycle Forum

Has anyone purchased some of these, like the BST ones? I wondered what a difference it would make. I ride a 2004 ZX-10r. I think it would improve the flick-ability especially at speed.

Why not spend the 2.5k on instruction and track time if you want to get better at handling the bike?

That's a lot of money to chuck at a 15 year old bike, maybe if you can find a used set.

I have a stack of PB mags and both the crew and the readers (who write in) seem pleased with them, but they would be wouldn't they... BST pay to advertise in PB and any owner that's just forked out £2.5k is hardly going to tell everyone they wasted their money.

I can't see them making much of a noticeable difference for typical road riding though, but if they did wouldn't you just get use to the difference in feel?

Also (just playing devil's advocate here), if it does make the bike more flickable due to the reduced inertia and gyroscopic effect, then it might also make it more unstable at speed.
However the PB testers always say it doesn't..

I had a set of dymag magnesium wheels on a zx10r and could feel it wanted to change direction nice and easy.

On a gen1 zx10 though, would look at fitting some aprillia wheels which most people use as a nice light weight Alternative to aftermarket wheels.

I know Scooby on here was doing a few sets and may be able to help.

To be honest, a 2004 ZX-10R hardly needs making any more flickable, they're only borderline stable with a steering damper on them (I know, I bought one new in '04 and rode it for 11 years). Personally I wouldn't use carbon fibre wheels on the road, there are far too many potholes and other features of poor surface and furniture, and Carbon wheels won't have a soft failure mode - a pothole dinged a standard rim on my ZX and Dave East said it took a great deal of effort to sort it out - a similar impact on a carbon wheel would lead to a catastrophic failure which wouldn't end well, and your insurance company might not be willing to pay out if they get a sniff of something like non-standard wheels being the cause.
As Jug Inspector says, it's a lot of money to spend on a 15 year-old bike, and Simon's alternative suggestion of spending the £2.5k on riding tuition makes a lot more sense - that would get you a fair amount of track time with someone like Mike Edwards. If you want to spend money on the ZX, which rear suspension does it run? Fork internals could be upgraded, the stock brakes aren't great, I also had one as a track bike and it benefited greatly from a brembo radial m/c and a pair of Beringer calipers (you don't have to fit racing components, the brake set-up from a gen 4 ZX would be a big improvement over standard), Power Commander, Timing Retard Eliminator (makes much better wheelies possible in 2nd, 3rd & 4th)... there are many options for spending money that will give a greater benefit than fancy and fragile wheels (and give you change from £2.5k as well)
Ultimately, it's your money, your bike and your choice..

Millsyboy wrote: ↑Feb 15th, '19, 10:30 Has anyone purchased some of these, like the BST ones? I wondered what a difference it would make. I ride a 2004 ZX-10r. I think it would improve the flick-ability especially at speed.

Yay at Last a worthy topic

I probably ride the most tricked 04 zx10r on this forum and yes it is mental and currently under installation of a super finished gearbox and sigma slipper clutch up grade (that a side back to the wheels)

If have the money I would buy them without a shadow of doubt, a number of guys on the forum have them and would never go back to a standard wheel (bullet has them on his zx10r) you also need to consider ceramic wheels bearings to get the full benefit of reduced rolling mass.

As Ruffian said Aprilia wheels fit with a small alteration to wheel spacers which would saving tons of money and give you lighter wheels. Have you consider wheels by OZ you can get front and rear wheels for around £1700 (If I was spending £1700 I would spend £2500 to carbon wheels but that me)

If you are prepared to spend that money on an 04 zx10r (like i am) it sounds you can probably ride so spending ex amount on track time probably already happens! I tend to leave that talk for the people who can talk a good game and the bravado to those who probably need it.

If your bike is standard the things I would do

Change out rear shock as its shocking
Up grade front brake disks from 300mm to 320mm
Up grade front brake master cylinder
Re spring front forks and use slightly heavier oil
Power commander it or have ECU crack tune
Quarter throttle
Change to race set for gear change

Before anyone asks I've done all of those mods and much much more to mine and it is worth every penny. My zx10r is very competitive and have far more to give than my actual ability.

Back to the question about carbon fibre wheels:-

Firstly, for clarification I'm a normal rider not a track god so you might wish to take this with a pinch of salt. I got Dymag carbons for my Hayabusa as part of the frivolous spend of my retirement pot. Bought mainly for the bling I was doubtful I'd notice the difference, but I honestly and truthfully soon noticed a vast improvement in the steering of the Busa Barge. Initiating a turn is so much easier, as is changing your line through a turn, and the Busa is still rock solid stable at an indicated 190 ( unlike a ZZR1400 at similar velocity). Whether you want quicker steering requiring less physical rider input on a ZX-10r though is debatable.....

If I was going to take the Busa serious drag racing or land speed racing I'd have stumped up the extra for ceramic bearings but I don't think the lower friction bearings would make a noticeable difference for road riding and the occasional wobbly group track day.

Regarding possible catastrophic failure, yes I've heard a few horror stories, but after 20 years making carbon fibre aerospace components I have faith in the structural integrity of the material under extreme conditions and considering the years of development by Dymag and their exacting production methods I'm happy to have the CA5 wheels.

Its not about getting track time and handling bike, I can ride perfectly well thankyou. Although track time would be fun and much easier than fast road riding.
The bike is fairly good as is, but some fast corners I can run wide and that's giving it as much turn as physically possible. Suspension is sorted or best it can be on standard.
Brakes are rubbish

The wheels will no doubt speed things up , but if the standard damping and linkage ratio are on the standard kwak harsh side , depending on your own body weight , it may well make some aspects worse ,,so totally agree , junk the shock or at least get it revalved /resprung,but custom race shock will bring more benefit, plus a revavle up front to match ,or new internals, zzr 14 callipers with sbs rs pads will get you stopped,,This should also improve your ride quality and reduce tyre wear , give more feel and theoretically find you more grip on our iffy roads and give you more confidence in those corners you mention , for lot less money .
Then use the rest for a port job and cams !!

Millsyboy wrote: ↑Feb 16th, '19, 11:54 Its not about getting track time and handling bike, I can ride perfectly well thankyou. Although track time would be fun and much easier than fast road riding.
The bike is fairly good as is, but some fast corners I can run wide and that's giving it as much turn as physically possible. Suspension is sorted or best it can be on standard.
Brakes are rubbish

If it's running wide, I would concentrate on suspension set up and tailoring it towards your riding style and weight.

One of the best things I changed on mine was the rear shock, swapped it out for a nitron race shock, sorted out how it squated out of fast corners making the front go very light. I also changed from 9.5Nm springs to 10.5Nm springs in the front and changed from 7.5w to 10w oil as I suffered from bottoming out the front forks. It's also worth dropping the standard forks a min of 5mm through the top yoke, this makes front tip in a lot faster.

As for the front brakes, swap to Brembo M4 calipers off a Suzuki k9 and go for the 320mm disk conversion and get rid of the wavy disc's, that will sort out the braking.

If your running wide your taking too early an apex rather than anything else.

I think you can spend the money on carbon wheels but if your in the wrong place won't make much difference.

Ruffian wrote: ↑Feb 16th, '19, 18:48 If your running wide your taking too early an apex rather than anything else.

I think you can spend the money on carbon wheels but if your in the wrong place won't make much difference.

Awesome point there Ian, don't matter what bits you stuck on ya bike, if your in the wrong place in a corner you is going wide and slow.

Sounded like a contradiction to me. Nothing wrong with my riding but I run wide on certain corners! Sounds like an accident waiting to happen.

Mate won the NG 600 class championship on a 2002 gixer standard.. no mods at all!

Was doing a 1.38 around cadwel..

I'm no racer. But there appears to be a few things in this thread now.
Carbon wheels, never had a set but would love them, there are cheaper 1st improvements, but if u do get them then u have a spare set of wheels (and tyres) for wet/winter rides.
"...some corners..." does sound like technique.
I put a Nitron on my zx9r, dropped yokes a few mil, absolute transformation.
I put Maxton on my 2011 z1000 in 2016, defo improved higher speed handling. New shocks defo worth money if yours is past its best.
Don't buy a manufacturers cheapest shock, get one from middle of range.