Can anyone help me with a problem with my Triumph

[Scotty4545]

Put a jump lead from the engine block to the negative terminal.
This will give a direct earth.

Also make sure the connections on the positive are good, as have seen dodgy starter solenoid connections give issues, especially if had starting issues before.

Might even be worth putting a screwdriver/jumping the starter solenoid just to confirm not burnt out inside

Would the smaller connections on the solenoid cause any issues? The large terminals are clean and I also have a direct engine ground but the smaller connections on the solenoid which I assume are to just energise the solenoid are a little lose.
I will try jump with screwdriver but this freaks me out a bit I'm useless with electrics and don't want a shock haha

[Scotty4545]

All the things suggested are possible. Eliminate earth issues as per Ruffian's post then work your way through. I would suggest a proper drop test on your battery. Most are pretty awful quality I've just gone through three battery warranty claims on a works van with supposed premium battery, all shite. Worth trying a direct earth from the starter motor to the frame as well.

Whats a drop test and where would I find a place that does them?

[Scotty4545]

Absolutely buzzing with the amount of replays and new suggestions to try thanks everyone. Will be working on this over next few evenings fingers crossed we get it sorted thanks again!

[Robbo87]

Scott - getting back to the upgraded starting cables, this is the recognised upgrade for the Sprint ST (and GT) 1050. They're made and supplied by Jeff 'Pudding' Halford here in the UK. Is the Speed Triple the same layout?

As supplied - Sep' 2019.JPG

25052026 (2).jpg

25052026 (1).jpg

On another note, while it's true that the condition and efficiency of the reg/rec, stator and all the relevant connectors won't normally affect engine start per' se (providing the battery is well up to scratch) - it'll sure be critical for getting and keeping the battery there.

[Scotty4545]

Scott - getting back to the upgraded starting cables, this is the recognised upgrade for the Sprint ST (and GT) 1050. They're made and supplied by Jeff 'Pudding' Halford here in the UK. Is the Speed Triple the same layout?

As supplied - Sep' 2019.JPG
25052026 (2).jpg
25052026 (1).jpg

On another note, while it's true that the condition and efficiency of the reg/rec, stator and all the relevant connectors won't normally affect engine start per' se (providing the battery is well up to scratch) - it'll sure be critical for getting and keeping the battery there.

I'm sure the length of cables for the speed triple are not the same as the Sprint or other models with the same 1050 engine.
I have also looked into the Jeff "Pudding" starter cable kit. It's great you can get something like this "off the shelf" although I found it much cheaper to get everything I need including a heavy duty crimping tool and do it myself.
Inregards to the RR, I'm planning on upgrading the RR and stator and with more direct thicker wire to boost battery charge as this is also a common thing to do on the earlier Striples. Once I've got the bloody thing starting unassisted

[ptolemyx]

I'll give you a fiver to take it off your hands

[Scotty4545]

I'll give you a fiver to take it off your hands

that is probably the cost of the part or how much it is going to be to fix this when i finally find it HOPEFULLY!
If all else fails when I feel like torching the bloody thing I'll bare your offer in mind thanks haha.

[Robbo87]

Scott, I'll double Brian's offer .
However, if you really DONT want to part with it in disgust and you have the time to coax the trumpet to east Devon I'll be happy to investigate the offending bike's innards with you, tea and coffee on tap, I have the time nowadays, mostly. Seriously, drop me a pm if I can help with some spanner twirling.

[Tvrv37]

All the things suggested are possible. Eliminate earth issues as per Ruffian's post then work your way through. I would suggest a proper drop test on your battery. Most are pretty awful quality I've just gone through three battery warranty claims on a works van with supposed premium battery, all shite. Worth trying a direct earth from the starter motor to the frame as well.

Whats a drop test and where would I find a place that does them?

A professional automotive battery drop test measures the voltage retained while the engine is cranked to check internal capacity and health

Anyone with a proper load tester. Halfords, auto electrician, most tyre/battery centres will have one.

[Scotty4545]

Scott, I'll double Brian's offer .
However, if you really DONT want to part with it in disgust and you have the time to coax the trumpet to east Devon I'll be happy to investigate the offending bike's innards with you, tea and coffee on tap, I have the time nowadays, mostly. Seriously, drop me a pm if I can help with some spanner twirling.

Wow double bubble! I knew this site was worth signing up to
The last thing I want to do is give up and sell it on. I have spent a lot of my time and a fair bit of cash on this bike. More than any other bike I have owned, especially time wise. I will take you up on the second part of what you said. Firstly thank you! Secondly I need to get the bike mot before I can ride up. Would a starting issue like mine cause any problems getting a mot?

[Scotty4545]

On another note got new front disc rotors delivered and dry fitted them this evening as old ones were on the wear limit. Think they look sweet as considering the price

[Scotty4545]

All the things suggested are possible. Eliminate earth issues as per Ruffian's post then work your way through. I would suggest a proper drop test on your battery. Most are pretty awful quality I've just gone through three battery warranty claims on a works van with supposed premium battery, all shite. Worth trying a direct earth from the starter motor to the frame as well.

Whats a drop test and where would I find a place that does them?

A professional automotive battery drop test measures the voltage retained while the engine is cranked to check internal capacity and health
Anyone with a proper load tester. Halfords, auto electrician, most tyre/battery centres will have one.

Can I not don't this with a multi as I try and start the bike and read the display?

[Jug]

Yes, if your meter has min/max function it's easier to do.

Last time I did it I was using a basic meter so I just set my phone up to record the meter. Then I stepped through the video to see what the lowest voltage was..

This was on a bike that was still starting quickly but cranking slower than normal, so there was barely time for the meter to display the cranking voltage. As yours isn't starting on the main battery alone it should give you plenty of time to read it.