Engine oils

[Red5]

I understand the viscosity things of W ratings on oils, ie, 10/40 15/50 etc...

Just wondering if anyone has any advice for chosing either 10/40or 15/50 over the other one. Sticking to Triumph recommendations, will be using Mobil1 4T. Looking at prices, there seems a saving of virtually 25% when buying 10/40 compared to 15/50. Any advice/experiences greatfully received

[Ruffian]

Ask oilman, opie oils would recommend a decent oil at a decent price,
Be careful as some people say fully synthetic oils can cause clutch slip,

[Red5]

Looked at their site, and that's the first place I saw the price difference which made me wonder. Looked at loads of places on site and it seems about rite between the 10/40 and 15/50. Their price does seem the best I have to admit and not just a few pence here and there, it's a good few quid better.

Will be asking him but just wondered if people had experience and/or reasons for one over the other.

[Ruffian]

We use valvoline fuchs and total at work but we got to make sure its approved by manufacturers for
warrenties if appropriate,

I know silkoline and putoline oils are very good also,
Castrol is also a big brand name oil,

Biggest thing is just choose something you know is trusted, (decent quality big name brands)
And regular mantanence.

[Bullet]

As far as I know it's the viscosity or thickness of the oil at certain temperatures. For example a 10w-40 means the 10w is the Colder viscosity part, w meaning winter and the 40 is the hot viscosity part tested at 100c. A lower number means a thinner oil at those temperatures. So you got basically the cold oil so start up of bike and the hot part so when bike is at full operating temperature. I always hear guys changing their oils as they know best but in my opionon Manufactures of bikes go to great lengths to test their machines and recommend an oil for that motor. I personally trust their judgment and stick to their recommendations. Can't see the point of changing to a different thickness over their £1000's of research and risk wrecking my engine

I'm sure so one will correct me if I'm wrong

[TLS-Moose]

If you are given a choice of oil grades to use, they should also have provided a range of temperatures within which each grade is designed to work. Pick the grade which best suits the Max and main temperatures within which you are likely to use the bike (in our climate -5 or 0°c - 30°c should do).

As for the semi/fully synthetic argument, as long as you use a motorcycle specific oil, neither should cause operating issues. The reason for some people issues with fully synthetic is that car oils often have friction modifiers that don't work with wet clutches.

In my case, the TL gets 10/40 semi-synthetic (cos that is what Suzuki specify) and the MV gets 10/60fully synthetic (cos that's what MV specify)

[Mervin]

sound advice from the moose there , bike specific oil should not cause clutch slip

[Red5]

Thank you all. I get the whole viscosity thing and the potential clutch slip issues. Looking like the 10/40w is called for as it's the same spec, Mobil1 4T, as spec'd in the triumph manual, just that the 10/40w is significantly cheaper than the 15/50w, which is probably meant for Dubai or somewhere equally stupidly hot

[badgerKDD]

I use Opie Oils ( 2 mins up the road for me ) regularly and am always really happy with their knowledge and service. Give them a ring and have a chat, they should be able to find you a suitable oil at a decent price, don't forget you get discount if you have your SWB member card handy ;) !

Oh and 10/ 40 semi synth is the standard oil for most average bikes hence its cheaper due to volume sold........probably