Front brake rebuild and rebleed help on RF600R

[Gav]

This will be my first attempt at anything mechanical on the bike. I've done plenty of stuff on my cars, from changing wheels, all the way to engine swaps, suspension rebuilds and brake rebuilds, but I'm a bit unsure with the bike. Is there much difference? am I likely to run into issues bleeding the brakes? I've got a pressure bleeding kit for the car, but I don't think it's going to fit on the front brake fluid pot The reason for doing it is that I'm pretty sure the front brakes are binding. If rebuilding the callipers don't work, I'm assuming it'll be new discs and pads?

I'm going to go into Exeter tomorrow to find CMS and get a new seal kit for it, and I've already got some ATE super racing blue (dot 4) that I can use for it.

Does anyone have a write up or a guide to rebuilding and/or rebleeding them? Is there an easy way to rebleed the front brakes?

Thanks in advance

[billinom8s]

Unless you have a Bike easy bleed I wouldn't try to do it fast.
You may not need a seal kit if there isn't any fluid leaking, might just be that the pistons are covered in shite and stuck.
Remove pads, pump lever to push out pistons, split calipers, remove pistons, clean them, grease them, refit pistons, join calipers, fit pads, bleed (ensure plenty of patience available ).

[Gav]

When you say grease the piston, is there a specific grease to use? Or will just a bit of new fluid do?

[Kata]

I just pump out the pistons but not enough to pop them out then scrub with a toothbrush and washing up liquid / water then cleaning off with brake cleaner.

Seems to come up a treat but if they really are corroded then a caliper split may be needed.

[Ruffian]

Put the piston Iin gently with "red rubber grease",
It helps lube the piston to get back in and doesn't affect the brake fluid etc.
Also as si said take your time
it's probably just the dust seals binding due to road grime

[Gav]

I picked the worst day for it, but they're done. The left hand calliper had one piston seized in it, and that same piston had only one seal rather than two. The right hand piston was worse, both pistons seemed to be seized, and they both only had one seal in them rather than two. I stripped both callipers down completely, cleaned all the parts up with brake cleaner and wire wool and fitted new seals all round. I've also changed the fluid for some ATE super blue Dot4 I've got left over from the car. One of the nipples was seized in pretty badly, but heating it up to 900000°c sorted that out eventually. It's all back together, and a quick road test suggests everything is working. I'll keep an eye on them for leaks etc, but hopefully the sticky calliper issue is solved. The only thing I noticed on the test ride, was that the lever doesn't feel as good as it did before. It seems like I've got to pull it in further before anything happens. Obviously, I've just had it all apart, so i'll give it a few days of use to settle again. Would an MOT station be able to check the braking power?

[billinom8s]

I'd say gtp just a bit of air in the system, plus you are used to the combined resistance of 3 seized pistons fighting against you.
Take the top off the reservoir pull the lever in with a cable tie and leave for a few hours, should Help any air escape. Then top it up and try again.