off Road bike setup.

[billinom8s]

So i've been out today to explore the lanes around Teignmouth and Newton with Mr Tractorwackyracer - there are many of them and they hurt when you dismount less than gracefully.

What I'm finding with this Bike is that it's a bit lumpy low down and at slower speeds(the pace I'm riding at through these jungles).

I suspect that the previous owner had set it up for motoX so it picks up better at higher rpms.

Is there anyone on here or in the area that is capable at doing these kind of fettles?

Cheers

[Ming]

Tremletts at Ashburton are very good. John's been around bikes all his life and is excellent at sorting trail and enduro bikes.

[Streetmann]

Tremletts is ace .but normally extremely busi testiment to his work.

[Jug]

I don't think you can change its power characteristics much, it's just the way they are I think, assuming yours hasn't got the YZ cams in.
It's medium to high tuned for a 250 so it likes to be rev'd, and thus has very little low down power. The alternative would be a softer 250 like the TTR.

Gearing might help but maybe try riding a gear lower, and slip the clutch more.
I think once you get more used to riding the lanes you will find it to be fine.

[billinom8s]

It's had a few mods done to it. Hydraulic clutch to replace the cable pull, levers etc but also some kind of adjuster on the base of the fueling system. Not sure if it's for adjusting the needle heights or what.

[Scotty]

A 290cc piston & barrel is a good investment for the WR. I fitted one to mine about 4 years ago and it gives a useful boost to the midrange. Doesn’t burn any oil either. The frustratingly low gearing on the WR should make things easier in nadgery sections, use the clutch a bit as well to control progress if you need to - though this has the effect of getting the clutch hot, leading to drag and difficulty engaging neutral. It’s the worst bit about the bike, I had to fit fresh plates to mine to cure it. Oil feed to the plates is very poor - fed from the middle of the main shaft and flung out centrifugally through holes in the inner basket to the plates. Recommend taking the basket out and drilling lots more oil holes in it. A good tip is to knock it into neutral as soon as you stop, holding it in gear gets it hot and warps the plates.

[billinom8s]

yeah, i already do the clutch feed and steady throttle. The slip to neutral at stopping is a given.

It's also got a dep exhaust system with expansion tank so it has had the system tinkered with.

[Jug]

some kind of adjuster on the base of the fueling system. Not sure if it's for adjusting the needle heights or what.

Put a picture up so we can see.
It's likely a remote adjuster for the fuel screw.

[billinom8s]

Will do

[billinom8s]

Here ya go

[Jug]

Extended fuel screw is what that is, to make it easier to adjust without tools.

There's a method to doing it.. something like warm the bike up, turn it one way until the revs start climb (note the number), then back until they drop and climb again (note the number), then set it in the middle of those two numbers. Then your carb is matched to the conditions.
Most people don't bother.

[billinom8s]

Thanks.

Maybe that will give me some smoother running.

Who knows?

[Ducaki]

Might need a bigger pilot jet. My crf250x was horrendously lean and snatchy as standard. Just grunts from the bottom now.
WhatsApp me if you want some help.

[billinom8s]

Whatsapp sent.

[Dan_RR]

That looks exactly the same as the carb on my ktm exc-f 250, I fitted one of those aftermarket mixture screws to as its a right bugger to try and adjust with the stock flat head, I adjust it quite often, think it sometimes vibrates around slightly, here's a good video:

https://youtu.be/St3GXwANj4Q