ZX6-R G2 Headgasket gone :(

Jonny · Post by **Jonny** » Dec 27th, '07, 17:55

Friend of mines got a ZX6R G2. We noticed white foam in the oil level window etc.

Question is, whats involved in replacing it? Does the engine need dropping out? I'm not asking because I want to attempt to do it myself but more so that I can get an idea about how much it would cost to get it done (I'm not keen on messing about with cams).

Dynasangel · Post by **Dynasangel** » Dec 27th, '07, 18:09

It doesnt always means the gasket is gone, My 2003 ZX6R and 1999 G2 did that when used on alot of short trips.

Mike Daytona600 · Post by **Mike Daytona600** » Dec 27th, '07, 20:29

Like Dynasangle says.

Make sure that the water level is ok and that the oil level is ok. If it is then it might just be condensation build up. If the water level has gone down a lot and the oil level has gone up then suspect gasket. If he hasn't been doing any long runs the engine hasn't had a chance to get hot enough to evaporate the condensation.

Another thing that might be worth checking is that the engine breather hose between the engine and the airbox isn't blocked as this would prevent any moisture in the engine from being vented.

If you're really worried you could always do an oil change and see if any water comes out with it or if it's just a bit of mayonasing.

Rab · Post by **Rab** » Dec 30th, '07, 01:20

same as Dynasangel says
My brothers G1 use to get the white sludge
down to doing short trips

Jonny · Post by **Jonny** » Jan 2nd, '08, 09:08

ok thanks everyone. he only uses it on short trips

jam · Post by **jam** » Jan 6th, '08, 17:04

If you need a head gasket, please let me know. I've got a brand new Wiseco head gasket for ZX6R G/F sitting here unwrapped if you need it.

Iggy · Post by **Iggy** » Jan 6th, '08, 20:07

i have that white condensation too, but my water level hasnt dropped and oil level is fine too, doesnt consume either ever, but i have kinked my breather pipe as i dont like the idea of oil getting thrown directly into my carbs, stupid design i think but its on all bikes, if theyd put it infront of the filter and not behind then thatd be fine, silly engineers

Iggy · Post by **Iggy** » Jan 6th, '08, 20:26

youll want that stuff out soon though, especially if he doesnt intend on riding for a while, although all of the engine will be oiled, after a few days it will have drained off some components, condensation + condensation = rust, when the engine starts moving again the rust will get shaved off and leave tiny bits of rust in your engine, which will help wear out your engine, although it wont be much rust, its still more than you want though since it can be avoided, to release a most of the condensation get the engine upto temp, leave it a little while longer til it goes onto the next bar (mines a zx6r 98 so has digital segments for the heat, 3 bars is normal temp which is about 80degress centigrade, so what im saying is leave it to the next temperature mark, in my case that would be the 4th digital segment coming on, 95+ centigrade) at this oil temperature all the water will be steam, so stop the engine, and take the oil filler cap off, leave it for 10 minutes and then refit the filler cap, shouldve given the steam chance to escape, dont expect huge amounts of steam, youll not even see it, but dont be tempted to leave the engine more than 10minutes, itll cool down too much and allow the engine to bring back in moisture, when you get the tank off next check the crankcase vent tube isnt kinked but is connected, if its not connected and not kinked, then whenever you wash the bike youll likely be getting water in that tube, which will go straight into the engine again,

scuse the lack of paragraphs, i never know when to put them in

jam · Post by **jam** » Jan 6th, '08, 22:41

The white 'yoghurt' is the emulsion that forms when moisture from condensation in the crankcase is mixed with oil
The condensation usually occurs because the motor has only been run for short journeys, and has not reached a sufficiently high enough temperature to burn off the moisture.
Take the bike out and give it a good thrashing.
As for the breather hose, unkink it, the reason it's there is to reduce pressure from the pistons pumping action within the crankcases, which can reduce horsepower and increase oil pressure leading to damaging of seals and gaskets.
The breather is directed into the airbox because of emissions regs. ideally the breather should be routed to the atmosphere with a small fliter on the end of it. The reason it is directed inboard of the air filter is so that any oil mist is drawn directly into the motor and burnt, instead of oil mist ending up on the filter element causing it to reduce the amount of airflow through the filter material. However, there is is a baffle plate with a vapour trap built into the crankcases below the breather outlet to the airbox, with a drain back into the crankcases, this reduces the likelyhood of any oil being blown into the airbox.
You can buy a crankcase breather kit from the likes of BSR aerotek which consists of a small filter on the end of a length of braided hose which attatches into a replacement oil filler cap on the clutch cover.