2000 r6 things to look for
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2000 r6 things to look for
hi all i need of a bit of help am going to look at a 2000 yamaha r6 and just want to no anything i need to look out for . any help is greatfull
many thanks
many thanks
49 % MOTHER FU*#ER - 51% SON OF A BITCH
Re: 2000 r6 things to look for
crash damage
and remember its a 12 year old bike so things like fork seals,discs and head bearings etc. a good known service history and some receipts would be nice. Gearboxes are a bit clunky on them and can be problematical.
Re: 2000 r6 things to look for
Abused or high mileage ones can have the transmission (particularly 2nd gear) buggering up on them.

Re: 2000 r6 things to look for
Hi thanks for reply its got full servise history fork seals just been done and 18000 on the clock never been crashed , dropped or tracked so soumds like it could be a winner ..... i have asked about the gear sittuation and he said there was no problem in any gear ....
49 % MOTHER FU*#ER - 51% SON OF A BITCH
Re: 2000 r6 things to look for
Also how would i check the head bearings ???
Many thanks
Many thanks
49 % MOTHER FU*#ER - 51% SON OF A BITCH
- Scotty
- Learner Driver
- Posts: 816
- Joined: Mar 22nd, '07, 19:31
- First Name: Simon
- Location: The New Forest
Re: 2000 r6 things to look for
Take someone with you when you view it (ideally someone who knows their way round a bike - it's always a good idea to have the voice of reason with you because you might get all loved-up over it and be oblivious to any faults it could have so you need someone totally impartial and objective there as well)
To check the head bearings, have the bike on the sidestand, take the bars (standing to the left of the bike) and pull back so the front wheel lifts off the floor. Get your knowledgeable friend to grip the bottom of the fork legs and see if there's any fore-aft play by rocking them back and forth - if there is it's likely to be slack or worn head races. You don't necessarily need to walk away, just add it to the haggling and knock a few quid off for the cost and aggravation of replacing them.
Something to be aware of - many R6s of this generation were (and still are) raced - do the wheels look fairly well-used (ie. seen a lot of tyre lever action), yet the bodywork is surprisingly mint? Has the sump plug been drilled for lockwire, do the handlebar grips show signs of being wired, does the fairing fit properly, nice and straight with no gaps, is the seat unit straight and in-line with the rest of the bike, is there any sign of contact with the ground on the ends of footrests, bars, levers, swingarm, bottoms of fork legs? Are the clocks straight and solidly mounted, no cable-ties?
Many bikes may be claimed to have never been raced, tracked or dropped, but this isn't always the case - know what to look out for... Best of luck, hope it's as good as it's made out to be...
To check the head bearings, have the bike on the sidestand, take the bars (standing to the left of the bike) and pull back so the front wheel lifts off the floor. Get your knowledgeable friend to grip the bottom of the fork legs and see if there's any fore-aft play by rocking them back and forth - if there is it's likely to be slack or worn head races. You don't necessarily need to walk away, just add it to the haggling and knock a few quid off for the cost and aggravation of replacing them.
Something to be aware of - many R6s of this generation were (and still are) raced - do the wheels look fairly well-used (ie. seen a lot of tyre lever action), yet the bodywork is surprisingly mint? Has the sump plug been drilled for lockwire, do the handlebar grips show signs of being wired, does the fairing fit properly, nice and straight with no gaps, is the seat unit straight and in-line with the rest of the bike, is there any sign of contact with the ground on the ends of footrests, bars, levers, swingarm, bottoms of fork legs? Are the clocks straight and solidly mounted, no cable-ties?
Many bikes may be claimed to have never been raced, tracked or dropped, but this isn't always the case - know what to look out for... Best of luck, hope it's as good as it's made out to be...
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting"
Steve McQueen
Wheelies - they ARE big and they ARE clever
Steve McQueen
Wheelies - they ARE big and they ARE clever
Re: 2000 r6 things to look for
oh crap you just described my bike 
Re: 2000 r6 things to look for
That is excellent help thank you i have made a note and will do a thorough check , i will let you no how i get on, hopefully with picks of my new bike 
49 % MOTHER FU*#ER - 51% SON OF A BITCH
- Scotty
- Learner Driver
- Posts: 816
- Joined: Mar 22nd, '07, 19:31
- First Name: Simon
- Location: The New Forest
Re: 2000 r6 things to look for
Oh, and another thing... check that the engine and frame numbers match the V5 and look pukka, not like they've been recently done with a set of stamps from Machine Mart....
"Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting"
Steve McQueen
Wheelies - they ARE big and they ARE clever
Steve McQueen
Wheelies - they ARE big and they ARE clever
Re: 2000 r6 things to look for
cam chain and tensioner can sometimes be an issue on them.
also if you feel like the engine is dragging when you pull the throttle then your rings could be on their way out.
ive got a few bit and bobs if you need any spares (got a couple engines,wheels discs etc)
also if you feel like the engine is dragging when you pull the throttle then your rings could be on their way out.
ive got a few bit and bobs if you need any spares (got a couple engines,wheels discs etc)
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