Chain Advice

[JONCBR6F]

As a biking newbie I'm a little nervous about chain adjustment.

I had the troublesome alarm removed and the bike given a once over by a local bike mechanic which included some chain tightening. The bike (a 2003 Honda CBR600F) has a Scott oiler. Prior to this I don't doubt that the chain was a little loose but the gear change was always silky smooth. Now, over the first few miles while warming up, I find the gear change really quite stiff. Once warmed up the gear change is fine again...

The bike manual says to check/set chain tension on the centre stand and that checking section by section there should be 25-35mm of slack in the middle. I've not measured it exactly but there appears to be round about 25mm of slack at present (certainly not a lot more).

I suspect that the chain just wants a very slight loosening but am worried that once I undo the axle bolt and try to tweak the tensioners on either side (ensuring it maintains the same adjustment on either side) that I could find myself with the wheel out of alignment / even worse chain adjustment. Am I just being paranoid?

[billinom8s]

Some people are more worried about it than others, I tend too keep mine tensioned. It's a simple job and after a couple of times you won't be worried at all.

Where are you based? Could always pop over to mine in teignmouth and we'll go through it .

[JONCBR6F]

Thank you very much for the kind offer but I'm miles away in Wimborne Minster, Dorset.
In terms of the symptoms - difficult gear changes up through the box when first run in the morning from cold, the mechanic I spoke to suggested it's more likely to be sticking clutch plates. I'll try warming the bike up before setting off and an oil change if it persists.

[TLS-Moose]

it could also be a case of a change of oil - if it's gone from part to fully synthetic or vice-versa, or used an oil intended for cars rather than bikes .....

Chain tension is simple. If you are confident the wheel is aligned now, keep them even by simply counting the number of "flats" you turn the adjuster on one side, and repeat the same amount on the other. Only ever adjust one side by a max of 3 or 4 flats on one side before doing the other, and check the tension with the wheel nut tweaked up slightly. If you feel you need to slacken the chaon a little, loosen it no more than a couple of flats at a time, and that the wheel is pushed back against the adjuster by pushing against the tyre before you tighten the wheel nut. Once you are happy you've got the correct tension, don't forget to re-tighten the adjusters lock-nut's.

Some bikes like to have the chain on the slacker end of the adjustment range ..... in fact with both of mine the recomendation is to run them a little slacker than the factory manual states.

You could always ask your mechanic to show you how to adjust the chain properly?

[billinom8s]

I would of said oil change too with those symptoms.
Is the chain lubed?
If yo have a look on Youtube there are many instructional videos on how to adjust chain tension.

So long as you can measure, count and take your time you will be golden.

[JONCBR6F]

Thanks guys, will try warming the bike before using it on Monday which I understand should give me more indication as to whether the oil is at fault. My suspicions around the chain come from the fact that the gear change was absolutely fine all the time before it was adjusted. However, this time probably also coincided with my wife encouraging me not to warm the bike before heading off...

The chain is moderately clean and reasonably well oiled it seems by the Scott Oiler.

Then I'll take another look at the chain. Probably worth changing the oil anyway, it was last changed by a bike mechanic in Brighton in March not so many miles ago. My understanding of bike mechanics is a little limited but I now understand that unlike a bicycle, the cleanliness and lubrication of the chain will have little impact on gear changes?

[Kata]

If u can get to Taunton I'll have a look at it. Its important to check a chain to see if there are any tight spots and check play at that point. To be honest though if it gets better after warming up its sounds like an oil and filter change would be a good idea.

[JONCBR6F]

I took it out for the first time this week this morning and warmed it up to 40+ degrees before setting off (according to the dash water temp thermostat). My neighbours will have to suffer the stubby Scorpion can while it starts on fast idle before slowing down

This seems to have cleared any gear change concerns so it looks like an oil and filter change will be in order. I'm guessing this will be relatively straightforward and someone probably has a Youtube video somewhere for my bike.

Thank you very much for all of your advice, tips and offers of help. It seems more of you are in a Devon direction (I'm fairly East Dorset) so a bit far away but appreciated nevertheless. Maybe some of you venture out as far as Poole Quay for the Tuesday night meet?!

Jon

[Dailaughing]

I wouldn't warm the bike up that way as cold running is when the damage is done so get it running asap (but gently). As long as the gear changes don't worry about a little reluctance you just have to remember to use extra care for a mile or so. You should be riding gently until warmed up anyway so no problem.

Certainly nothing to do with the chain as you found out. Jerking when changing would be a sign of loose chain. I would guess the only problem with an over-tight chain would be extra stress on it (and wear).

[JONCBR6F]

I ran it just long enough for it to go from fast idle to normal idle before setting off, do you think even that is a potential issue? Certainly much nicer to ride setting off like that.

It redlines at 14,500 revs but to be honest I rarely use more than 5000 on the way to work! After about 7 miles I opened the taps up to 7500 or so this morning (starting to get right into the power band) but its sufficiently pokey that even that was probably excessive (in NSL). I love the lack of mass and responsiveness of the bike but its undoubtedly overkill for my 25 mile a day commute with just 2 short sections with speed limits above 40mph.

[Dailaughing]

I have no proof either way but it makes sense to warm up by riding rather than idling so I go with that. Like you say up to 5000 revs until it is thoroughly warmed. My ZZ-R 600 will run smooth after a couple of hundred yards (manual choke so I turn it off then) so there is less motivation to warm it first I guess.

Some say low revs lead to coking and fuel issues but on cars I find a blast every 50-100 miles is enough to keep it clean. Can't speak for bikes as I can't do 100 miles without pushing it too far;-)

Just changed the oil for the first time myself so it will be interesting to see whether there is any difference in gear change now (didn't have time to get fairing back on due to the oil filter being overtightened). My first and second are clunky but I assumed that was just the famous Kawasaki gear box clunk.

[Kata]

. I would guess the only problem with an over-tight chain would be extra stress on it (and wear).

If its too tight you can stress the drive shaft and this will cause wear on it and the bearings/seals around it. Its better to have a chain slightly loose rather than too tight.

also when u sit on a bike the extra weight will tension the chain a little tighter still.

when u come to adjusting a chain or doing an oil&filter always best IMHO to find the correct torque settings and uae a torque wrench.

i say this as one who managed to knacker a sump plug on a gsx 550 a few years ago.

dont worry though as apart from that its pretty straight forward. Get a decent workshop manual.

[billinom8s]

Reading your initial post again got me to thinking slightly out of the box, hear shift wise.

Do you clean your Bike a lot?
Do you go round and lube pivot points on a regular basis, after cleaning your bike or just as a routine job ?

I ask this as there are 3 moving parts between your toe and the selector shaft into the bike.

If the grease has come away through cleaning agent or use that will restrict the gear change movement and it's ability to return to neural position.

Follow the selector lever back up to the peg, does this move freely? From the back of the peg there is a ball joint, normally inside a rubber shroud, slide off shroud and check for grease and movement - it should have both. Then move along the rod that connects to the ball joint to the other ball joint and check the same condition.


Might be fine, might all be dry and tight which will make gear change tricky.

[Dailaughing]

Probably wouldn't get better as it warmed up but then again who knows with heat causing different bits to expand. Also made me realise I haven't checked that sort of stuff for a good while